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'Scream

NO WRITER ATTRIBUTED

So you love ice cream? Well, as they've probably told you, you've come to the right place. The only problem is choosing the richest, the creamiest, and the most exotic, not to mention toppings. Most people have a favorite they'll swear by, but there are as many opinions as there are varieties of chocolate and vanilla. Forget the purist instinct, shed your inhibitions, let your imagination run wild.

Balley's (21 Brattle St.): The only really old fashioned ice cream parlor around, Bailey's is quaint and a pleasant surprise. Tall sundae glasses filled with such antiquated joys as "Mocha Lace." None of those newfangled candy mix-ins. This is purism at its best. Brigham's (1420 Mass. Ave.): Chain-store decor aside, Brigham's boasts generous portions, thick frappes, and low prices, though sophisticates sneer. Steve's (34 Church St.): The original, legendary Steve's (in Somerville) was reputed to be worth the lengthy trek. The fun may have gone out of Steve's now that there's a branch right opposite the Harvard Square Theater. The ice cream isn't as good, but its formidable competition. Herrell's (15 Dunster st.): Not really s Steve's competitor, Herrell's was started by Steve Herrell (the man who started Somerville Steve's before selling out), and some claim there's not much difference between the two. Others charge that Herrell's is creamier, Steve's richer... Decide for yourself. Both feature an awesome array of candy and fruit toppings, which can be sprinkled on top or mixed into the ice cream (slightly higher charge for mix-ins--they use lots of elbow grease.) Very serious hot fudge, and the prices (about $2for a large Scoop with Reese's) reflect the extremity of this permanent fad. Emack and Bolio's (1310 Mass, Ave., 1726 Mass, Ave.): the legend has it that the place was named after two burns, but the ice cream here is anything but down-at-the-heels. A serious contender for die-hard's scream fans, E & B ofters flavors more exotic, than most: Midori (melon liqueur), Pumpkin, and Chocolate Moose are but a few, If you and your roommates are absolutely, insanely insatiable, go for an Emack Attack--24 scoops with almost as many toppings. Cahaly's Dairy Kitchen (47 Mt. Auburn St.): An institution, without a doubt. With cozy tables in a chic part of the Square, Cahaly's offers some of the creamiest and richest ice cream around, all made on the premises, Bittersweet chocolate is the house special. Frappes are tough to beat, and the frozen yogurt (available with very fresh fruit) is a terrific alternative for your bewildered palate. Baskin-Robbins (1230 Mass, Ave.): Why anyone would frequent a chain that has spread to the corners of the globe, given the native alternatives, is beyond some, but the familiarity can be comforting to the homesick. The cheapest cone in the Square, and the smallest scoop, too. Try the mudpies--now available in individual slices for $1.50 each--made of Jamocha Almond Fudge ice cream in a pie crust. Haagen Dazs (67 JFK St.): Considered one of the best of the mass-marketed variety, Convenient for Gelaria shoppers, for some it's a slice of home. Chocolate-chocolate chip is still tops: so rich, they named it twice. Gelateria (Mt. Auburn St.): This new-wave addition to the list of summer palate-coolers may not be stealing the ice cream clientele, but it's an interesting alternative. Real Italian Gelati (richer and fruitier than ices, less rich and creamy than ice cream), and the prices are even steeper than the chic ice cream parlors

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